All these volcanoes...

Volcanoes are one of Indonesia's most famous landmarks (or, after the latest eruption of Merapi, I shall say infamous). The whole archipelago exists because of enormous volcanic activity in the region, and until this day there are about 150 active volcanoes in Indonesia.

One Sunday, I went on a day-trip to Tangkuban Perahu (or Tangkuban Parahu, in the local Sundanese language). It is an active volcano located some 30km north of Bandung, the capital of West Java province and one of the largest cities in Indonesia. I got there by car as getting there otherwise might be quite a hassle, with all the angkot being rather unreliable - there is no such thing as a time schedule and you never know how long it will take you to get there, or if you get there at all. Upon arrival, one thing really struck my attention. This is probably the only place in Indonesia where you can buy winter fur hats! Small vendors searched for potential customer who, completely unused to the mild mountainous climate, were simply freezing. As the top of the mountain is at some 2100 metres above sea level, the temperatures get there to as little as 10 degrees Celsius. For an average Indonesian this is way too low.

Firstly, I went on a little trek around the crater, to reach the side where the view is at its best. On the way, there were a number of warungs, little shops and stalls serving food an drinks. I got pretty hungry sitting in the car and doing nothing, so getting some nasi bakar (literally: baked rice) seemed like a good idea. It felt very surreal to be surrounded by these reddish-yellowish sulphur-containing rocks and ground. In many places, you could see signs saying Dilarang Merokok (Smoking Forbidden). I found it surprising that it was probably one of the few places in Indonesia were that sign was more or less respected, probably because people were afraid of the sulphur dioxide, or something else. It doesn't work this way in buses, airports or universities, were, despite all the signs, people continue smoking anyway.

As with many things in Indonesia, there is a legend behind the creation of Tangkuban Perahu. Once upon a time in West Java there was a beauty named Dayang Sumbi, daughter of a wise king. She was very tired one day, and she dropped a weaving tool. Being to lazy to pick it up, she shouted out loud: 'Is anybody there? Please, bring me my tool. I will give you a special present. If you are female, you will become my sister. If you are male, I will marry you!'

Unexpectedly, a male dog named Tumang appeared, holding the tool in his mouth. Very surprised, she regretted her words but she had to keep up to the promise. And so they married. Several months later they had a son named Sangkuriang, who was a handsome and healthy boy.

Sangkuriang liked hunting, and one day who wanted to hunt some deer's heart for his mother. Whenever he went hunting, Tumang was by his side. However, deer were not that easy to find anymore. He didn't want to disappoint his mum, so he killed Tumang. He didn't know Tumang was his father, and at home, he gave his mother his father's heart. Dayang Sumbi knew that it was Tumang's heart. She was so angry that she hit Sangkuriang in the head, leaving him with a scar. After that, he was banished, and Dayang Sumbi escaped into sadness. God felt pity for her and made her forever young.

Many years have passed and Sangkuriang has become a strong young man. He travelled to many places and one day he reached his home village, of which he was not aware. They met each other without recognizing each other. They fell in love and decided to marry. But than Dayang Sumbi recognized the scar on her son's head. She told him but he wouldn't believe, insisting on marrying soon.

Because of that, Dayang Sumbi gave him a very difficult condition to fulfil in order for them to marry - build a lake and a boat in one night. It was supposed to be the present for their honeymoon. Sangkuriang agreed. With the help of a genie and spirits that he called upon, Sangkuriang tried to build them. By midnight he had finished the lake by building a dam on Citarum river. Then he started building the boat. It was almost dawn when he nearly finished it.

Meanwhile Dayang Sumbi kept watching on them. She was very worried when she realized it, so she called on her workers to spread red silk cloths east of the city, to give the impression of impending sunrise. Sangkuriang was fooled, and upon believing that he had failed, he kicked the unfinished boat, making it turn upside down. Tangkuban Perahu means 'boat upside down', and it looks like one too.

This is the legend about the creation of the volcano, but as I don't really believe in this kind of stories, I will also write about some more down to ground things. Like the egg boiling geysers. It takes a half an hour long walk through the forest to arrive at Tangkuban Perahu's very own hot springs. Not only you can buy eggs and boil them in a geyser, but also you can simply relax, put your feet into the warm water, and have somebody give you a massage or a 'spa treatment'. This whole place looks like from a different planet, with all the mist constantly on the move. Wildlife amateurs will also enjoy the forest itself and all the lush vegetation. And if you think that it's been enough walking for you and you need a rest, simply have a sit and a coffee at the warung right at the spot.

Well, this is all I'm going to write about Tangkuban Perahu. You want to know more? Pack up your bags and go there to find out by yourself! (or leave a comment on the blog :))